Nächste Woche ist es wieder soweit: Die Mercedes Benz Fashionweek macht Halt in Berlin. Mit dabei wie in der letzten Saison ist auch wieder Lucian Broscatean, der im Rahmen der Fashionschau der Romanian Designers seine Entwürfe A/W 2012/2013 zeigt. Bereits vor der Fashionweek hat Lucian sich die Zeit genommen, LeStijl einige Fragen zu beantworten. Da darf man auf die Show gespannt sein.
1) What is your new collection about?
„Dream Map” fall/winter 12/13 is a conceptual collection which I will present within the Romanian Designers fashion show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. The collection is composed of hybrid unisex items which can be worn and styled in different ways. The whole collection is based on contrasts between lightness and darkness, between thick fabrics and soft structures, between fragility and strength, disconnection and attachment.
White shirts with black or grey incisions (or coats with incorporated cubic volumes) have a geometric shape which is reminiscent of the Transylvanian traditional white shirts. Usually I incorporate within the collections, in an abstract way, elements specific for the Romanian traditional costume. I try not to make anything too literal.
For each collection or project the concept is very important because it guides the way I conceive and construct the shapes of the items. All the incisions and the angular shapes of the coats seem to be mapping different body parts, creating a sort of visual tension.
The styling of the collection is made by Marian Palie, the stylist with whom I worked at the previous Berlin shows as well, hats are designed by Gabriela Dumitran and the shoes are a collaboration with Mihaela Glavan.
2) What were your inspirations?
Tarkovsky’s dream sequences and Brothers Quai eerie film ”Institute Benjamenta or This Dream People Call Human Life” were two staring points of the collection. The strange characters and the whole atmosphere inspired me to create a sort of dream landscape in which new morphologies are generated and clothes become abstract maps… These references are interwoven with the traditional elements that I was talking about. I won’t tell more, I will let the rest of the story unfold on the catwalk.
3) What is most important to you in the process of designing? Colour, fabric or shape? And why?
Everything is important. It all has to become an interwoven functional network.
4) What is unique about Romanian Fashion?
I really believe in the creativity and know-how of many Romanian designers. In the last 20 years, many platforms for promoting Romanian fashion were created and in the last couple of years some of the Romanian designers have become visible also on the international scene.
The uniqueness comes from a sort of particular Eastern vibe, with its specific cultural legacy.
5) Do you prefer designing for women or men? And why?
I design for creative people. Most of my clothes are unisex.
6) For you as a designer what is more important: creativity or wearability?
Three things – creativity, wearability and emotion.
Although the collections are conceptual and are composed of strange shapes and an eerie styling, each item is wearable and one can integrate it in an unconventional wardrobe.
7) What do you think are the differences between designing today and designing in earlier decades?
The hyper technological urban environment has changed everything including the design processes, the way we perceive tradition and craft, the curiosity for the new… Fast fashion should always have as a counterpoint slow fashion. In the earlier decades I think it was much more about consistency and emotion. Most of the times, today a beautiful surface is more appealing than a profound, deep introspection…
Vielen Dank an Lucian für die Antworten.